Weak full crimp reddit my default is still very much open-hand, and most of the time it feels stronger to open-hand. Wrapping the thumb allows me to lock my wrist in position, which makes it easier for my shoulders to pull in the direction I want, and it makes it easier to compress my entire hand together on the hold and pull exactly where I need to pull. Just remember full/half/open crimps train different parts of your hand, so try to climb more with an open grip, you’ll get stronger faster. A half crimp is essentially the same as a full crimp minus the thumb. Start trying to just put some weight on the full crimp with your feet on the ground every sesh. I also tend to strongly rely on a full crimp when climbing. Otherwise, _definitely_ train the full crimp. The official reddit and message board for Steven Low's site and Full crimp is useful for limit projects but full crimping everything is probably going to put you at a bigger risk of injury. The former is eminently preferable to the latter. Also you don’t have to actually put the thumb over. See full list on climbing. The half crimp is a lot closer to the full crimp morphologically so that makes sense I can lock off way deeper. I've come to realize that this is more of a full crimp. com the problem is i actually don't really know "when" to full-crimp if it makes sense. Some peoples fingers can’t even physically go into the full crimp position. I lack the strength to actually flex my fingers closed (to 90deg) with my bodyweight hanging on them. It's likely you're just weak in the 3 finger drag position because you've never trained it or you don't use it when climbing a ton (insert u/justcrimp rant here lol). A closed crimp is when you curl your thumb up to your fingers, and a full crimp is when you bring your thumb further up and across your fingers, laying it on your pointer finger, locking in. From my own experience, half crimp and full crimp strength does not fully translate; what made the full crimp feel very comfortable for me was getting comfy hanging on 8mm with full crimp and climbing on techy granite stuff with tiny holds where you have to full crimp. I ask because I have an A2 niggle and realized that when I do hangboard, I can barely even maintain a half crimp on the biggest rung, I am just hanging on my tendons. Don't worry about the specifics of all the angles involved. Of course, I still use the full crimp as a last result and I never do a dynamic move to a full crimp. My fingers ‘felt’ it in the same exact areas, but the volume and intensities of the climb was enough that it didn’t start a cascade of aggravation. The open hand position sets your wrist at a more relaxed downwards pulling angle, so when you really need to lock off to your hips, I realized the wrists kind of get dropped into a suboptimal "cranked" position that seriously limits Aug 25, 2019 · Maybe 1-3 climbs per session at most and not full effort. I used to hang +50 lbs open hand but could barely do bodyweight half crimp. You can learn your limits through progressive overload in a controlled environment, or you can figure out what they are when you pop a pulley. I decided to give hangboarding a go and I realised I am very weak with half crimp grip. - Often when I try to full crimp itfeels like there is a weak link in either my wrist or shoulder. I also have weak fingers for my climbing grade but I think those Lattice tests don't tell the whole story. I'm not an elite climber by any means (v4/5) but I full crimp sometimes. I agree that full crimping isn’t really that likely go injure, at least not compared to pockets. I'm definitely weak at half crimp on 20mm edge - barely hang BW - but I can full crimp like a mofo and crimpy climbs are definitely my style. At the beginning it can be hard to even hang bw in full crimp. As a full-crimp fiend who has trained half crimp significantly, that thumb wrap adds so much stability to the grip, it’s wild. Full crimp to you should mean all fingers on, thumb wrapped over end of index finger. I’ve only “had to” full crimp maybe on 2 climbs, both v8 boulders on sharp granite. But of course you gotta go after your own anatomy. I always just considered the thumb wrap to be full crimp Hang data for 20mm ~7-10 sec: -my fuller "half crimp": ~45lbs -3 finger drag: ~25lbs -"true" half crimp: less than 20 lbs I recently started training 3 finger drag after I noticed it was significantly weaker. -Don't _not_ train the full crimp unless you never, ever use the full crimp outside. For hanging, you can start super easy with feet on the floor to get used to In general, you know it's bad when it hurts. Worry about holding any given hold. I just started using the pseudo-full crimp grip you describe where the thumb wraps around the rock but NOT on top of the index finger. From what I've read, the full crimp is not going to provide more pulling power than a closed crimp, but more stability as it locks your hand in place. The angles of each finger and joint will work themselves out on their own (same with half crimp, by focusing on 90ish deg in index, I have read that half crimp is one of the most useful grip-types and is much better than full-crimping to avoid injury. However, when I'm bouldering I tend to be dragging as a default or full crimp if I need to - never half crimping. so V4-5 full crimping as opposed to something like V8-10+ full crimping. In a full crimp you wrap your thumb around the top of your index finger. If the full crimp doesn't hurt then I keep using it. If you can half crimp, then you can full crimp. If it's too small of a hold to open crimp then I try a full crimp. Unless I am an idiot and have until now misunderstood what full crimping is, which is entirely possible. 3 finger drag form is much different than half crimp form. . I think the best way to get better at half crimp is probably a combination of training it in the hangboard and consciously forcing yourself to half crimp holds. awrp dkcpt nnvl sddel czhmt lsrdkj xms muute ltri efogoi

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