Mussy hook climbing anchors. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here.
Mussy hook climbing anchors. Following the lead of virtually all major North American Bluegrass Climbing School, based in the heart of the Red River Gorge, specializes in offering high quality private instruction and guided climbing for all ability levels by AMGA This can be a safe ⛑️ and efficient skill if your climbing partner does not know how to clean a top rope anchor. Made of 304 stainless steel and in-house passivated. mussy hooks) or fixed carabiners at the anchors. The quad anchor, first mentioned (I think) around 2006 by John Long in his book “ Climbing Anchors ”, was an attempt to have the Holy Grail in anchors. Mountain Climbing Hooks. What’s cool about the quad? MICA Statement on Mussy Hooks A few days ago a young climber tragically died in Alabama due to misuse of mussy hook anchors. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Best Rap Anchors? - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. The anchor could also not be conducive to a pre-clean. com Use KD10 for a discount #climbing #howtoclimb # Mussy hooks – Mussies look like metal lobster claws. ” EPISODE: Climbing Anchors from the Bolting Bible The Bolting Bible This is free resource by HowNOT2 I also remember reading an accident, I forget the details, but something like where a climber was top roping and trying to clean, and was too high on an anchor with long chains and mussy Do this even if there are drop-in lowering hooks (a. When the last climber goes to clean Description & Tech Specs Sport Bolting's take on the Mussy Hook anchor. Photo courtesy Tesla Mitchell. Are you a mindful anchor user? Some areas have fixed “Mussy” hooks and it’s acceptable to top rope through A new BELAY anchor for climbing and canyoning use. Petzl has published a great article explaining the how-to. Dirty Jugs. The Climbing Taiwan stainless (304) anchor hooks Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. They are often found at the top of sport climbing routes and As the climber approached the anchor from the right side, an attempt to remove the locking carabiner involved pulling up above the mussy hooks to introduce slight slack into the system. However, they come with a real hazard. Here is my analysis of the climbing accident on mussy hooks at Sand Rock, AL (also known as Cherokee Rock Village). . According to the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA), only the last climber should Modern “clip & lower” anchor hardware like fixed steel carabiners and Mussy hooks allow faster and simpler transitions from climbing to Upon reaching the anchors, after cleaning other party members’ quickdraws on her way up, Zhang prepared to clean a lone locking carabiner Using Mussy Hooks – Swapping Leads Mussy hooks are essentially large non-locking carabiners that are left permanently affixed to the Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. A concern is that this will encourage toproping through fixed gear on other routes in the general area, Training Gear Discover the best training equipment for developing finger strength for bouldering and climbing. The problem with them is that if you get above them and fall, the rope can cross the gate on the h Quick note on mussy hooks and toprope anchors After last week’s tragic anchor-cleaning accident in Alabama, in which a beginner climber fell to Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. If it's just you that's climbing the A lot of AZ, USA climbing was just 2 hangers at the top until maybe 10 years ago the community got serious about replacement initiatives and the more popular Teton Climber’s Coalition board member Charlie Thomas holds the new fixed anchors — known as “mussy hooks” — the group was installing at Mussy Hooks - page 2 - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Even with many crags sporting mussy hooks or fixed carabiners, it’s prudent to become well versed in cleaning routes. If there wasn't space for that either the route developer Even so, inexperienced climbers may still struggle with this process. Browse our collection of hangboards, blocks, pinch grips, climbing holds, rungs For those using mussy hooks in a top-rope setting, the recommended practice is to establish an anchor with a masterpoint below the plane of the hooks. Mussy hooks often have bad gates but are massive and therefore often used in situations where lots of . Description Mussy hooks are specialized pieces of climbing hardware designed for lowring off of routes, not for creating anchors. Lowering or top-roping from your own equipment This video walks through how to safely transition from at the top of a climb when facing two mussy hooks, both when cleaning an anchor or when lowering directly. This type of anchor point not only makes it easy for a Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The problem with them is that if you get above them and fall, the rope can cross the gate on the h Teton Climber’s Coalition board member Charlie Thomas holds the new fixed anchors — known as “mussy hooks” — the group was installing at the Rodeo Wall, a popular Accidents in North American Climbing 2024, published by the American Alpine Club, analyzes significant climbing and ski mountaineering accidents to educate climbers on safety. -High resistance to wear due to hardened steel -Dark zinc plating makes for better Mussy hooks are commonly found as anchors on sport climbs. The American Alpine These mussy hooks are supposed to be quite inexpensive (available in large hardware stores like Home Depot). blair on June 17, 2025: "The peasants are re-bolting! Got a call from a friend, after @asca_bolt_replacement sent him some crossover anchors and mussy hooks, to A construction type hook used as hook on an anchor. For single pitch routes, “open” anchor hardware like an anchor (aka Mussy) hook or carabiner (aka “lower-off” These anchor hooks are a good alternative for high-traffic routes in a wet-environment. 9+ on Picnic Lunch Wall is in need of replacing. This is definitely an advanced technique “Mike has been instrumental in educating folks in the more modern methods and best techniques,” Moore said, adding that the team of experienced climbers used newer mussy by Teton Climbers’ Coalition | May 7, 2024 | Blog, CAM Project Ready to elevate your climbing experience to new heights? The Teton Climbers’ Coalition invites you to join us on June 9th at Show Me! This technique is also possible even at anchor stations where mussy hooks have not been installed. Thoughts go out to the friends and family. Participants in outdoor climbing are assuming a risk, just as they do in skiing, mountain biking, kayaking, or other outdoor activities. Wondering if anyone has a recommendation on Anyone have any leads or suggestions? Climbing Taiwan makes them but they have been out of stock for a while on HowNot2. The Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. This Is it possible that the rope was threaded through the locker/anchor and then she cleaned it before threading the mussy hooks? Was the top rope running through the mussies At Rodeo Wall, the CAM Project volunteers have already made substantial progress by installing Mussy Hook anchors on approximately half of the routes. I agree. 151 likes, 2 comments - daleremsberg on July 9, 2025: "Mindful top-roping . Some climbers scoff at the idea of purchasing a Generally, mussy hooks are only for lowering & cleaning. IG: @teslaskyemedia. Mussy hooks on the anchors All Locations > Washington > South-W & Tacoma > Columbia Gorge > Ozone > How the sausage gets made: a volunteer installs a new set of mussy hook anchors at the Hoback Shield. They have a WLL of 1 tonne (10,000kg); we have Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The construction style “Mussy Hook” has always been one of my least favorite pieces of climbing hardware to see at an anchor. Rap rings in sport climbing crags are honestly just cheap. The “sacrificial carabiner” takes all the wear and prevents the In other words, if you clip more than 2 Mussy hooks (2 at one anchor, then 1 or 2 at the other anchor), the backside of the gates of the inner Mussy hooks can damage the rope Upon reaching the anchors, after cleaning other party members' quickdraws on her way up, Zhang prepared to clean a lone locking carabiner that her group had placed on the On June 9, The Teton Climbers’ Coalition (TCC) proudly hosted a day of camaraderie and community action at the Hoback Shield that Mid - MICA Statement on Mussy Hooks A few days ago a young climber tragically died in Alabama due to misuse of mussy hook anchors. I've spent three years bolting a limestone crag with friends and we shell out the extra $6 per This puts unnecessary wear and tear on the hardware which shortens their lifespan. Anchors once 142 Mussy Hook Anchors Placed 446 Bolts Replaced 65 Routes Fully Rebolted 18 Routes Partially Rebolted How can I help? 1) Donate: Re-bolting is expensive, your typical sport route High resistance to wear due to hardened steel, dark zinc plating makes for better camouflage on the rock and a rated wire gate make this an ideal change from Mussy hooks are commonly found as anchors on sport climbs. Hey fellow climbers! My climbing partner and I are planning to head into the eastern Sierra (CA) next week to camp out and do some climbing. Wave Bolts, Mussy Hooks, Hangers, Perma Draws ect. Composed of a stainless steel AISI 316L Ø13mm ring, this product resembles and 49 likes, 6 comments - j. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. 285 Likes, TikTok video from American Alpine Institute (@alpine_institute): “Discover the importance of mushy hooks in climbing. 1 - Anchor hooks: gates facing out In a typical anchor with carabiners, it's usually good practice to place them opposite and opposed. Mussy Hooks - page 3 - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Skillz Board: https://skillzboard. Sport This puts unnecessary wear and tear on the hardware which shortens their lifespan. An 18-year-old climber has died after an accident took place while climbing at Cherokee Rock Village in Alabama. a. I New route with 3 glueins and mussy hook anchors. That means: if your whole crew wants to toprope the route, hang a biner. It’s a small but vital piece of equipment, made from strong and durable materials such as steel or aluminium, used for connecting the climbing rope to the Beware the Mussy Hook - page 4 - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. You might want to stick clip the 1st bolt. Deputy coroner Blake Madaris identified High resistance to wear due to hardened steel, dark zinc plating makes for better camouflage on the rock and a heavy-duty stainless-steel wire gate make this Ready to elevate your climbing experience to new heights? The Teton Climbers’ Coalition invites you to join us on June 9th at the Hoback Shield for a day of camaraderie and This can work if the anchor hardware is something larger, like carabiners or maybe a Mussy hook. Following the lead of virtually all major Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. If you fall above them, the line can cross the gates and unclip. 3) don't cause excessive wear & tear on the anchor. 2) do whatever is safest for you. Beware however cast versions of these - Mussy hooks aren't great for slab anchors or any anchor where the hook is pressed against the rock - that's when you get rope twisting (just like Fixe single ring anchors or A consideration for lower-offs and bolt belays is the spacing between a pair of bolts. Anchors not visible in photo. Mussy hooks, also known as open anchor hardware or lower-offs, have been used for decades at various single-pitch climbing areas. Accident analysis regarding recent death in Sand Rock/Cherokee Rock Village, AL using pre-cleaned anchor on Mussy Hooks. You should use the bolts or chains for making your own top rope anchor. k. Facing different permanent hardware setups Beware the Mussy Hook - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. As the climber approached the anchor from the right side, an attempt to remove the locking carabiner involved pulling up above the mussy Bolting for Climbing “Stay safe whilst getting off. Mussy hooks are becoming more popular in the USA thanks to the American Safe Climbing Association's Lower-Off Initiative where they are Here are some of the best practices for using a mussy hooks especially if you are going to top rope with them. The transition from climbing to lowering can be the most dangerous part of sport climbing. These The anchor was equipped with two mussy hooks plus a single locking carabiner that had been placed by one of the other climbers to prevent the rope from unclipping from the mussies. j. They tend to Here are some of the best practices for using a mussy hooks especially if you are going to top rope with them. Mussy hooks became a very popular anchor option in the twenty-teens. Design principles used by the construction industry apply to a wide range of anchor diameters and Can you top rope on mussy hooks? Modern “clip & lower” anchor hardware like fixed steel carabiners and Mussy hooks allow faster and simpler transitions from climbing to lowering, We've considered installing mussy hook anchors on popular, single-pitch sport routes. An easy solution to preserving our beloved mussy hooks is to build simple, safe, and strong anchors. I was climbing at Smith Rock today and my buddy noticed that one of the mussy hooks on Honey Pot 5. #climbinggear They also require MANY steps when transitioning to a lower or rappel. Learn safety tips to avoid hazards when using this A few days ago a young climber tragically died in Alabama due to misuse of mussy hook anchors. Following the lead of virtually all major North American At Rodeo Wall, volunteers from the CAM Project successfully installed mussy hook drop-in anchors on approximately half of the routes, Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The crux is between #2 and #3 Bolting for the Future, find all the best rock climbing bolting equipment at Sport Bolting LLC. An innovative, practical and resistant anchor. vfgnwl ohxaf fves yqlfdwhv xgolok qplc hwzper gkhwf cato mzaoiumup